Catches And Clasps

Discussion in 'Project Depot' started by mozz, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. mozz

    mozz Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Just ordered some of those guitar case latches, this place has quite the selection and very good prices. Shipping was only $6.75 for 15 pieces. The search sucks and they don't have dimensions. I picked a few out and emailed for sizes, lady got back to me today.

    Put the model numbers in google and found a few other places selling them for about double pricing. On the others sites, the sizes were listed with model numbers, so then i go back to Ohio travelbag and see if they have those other models, they probably do.

    Basically, if you search for catch or latch, hundreds of them come up not even named that. I guess you rivet them on. It may even be better if the holes didn't line up where the old ones were. Some models are longer and have 5 holes instead of 4, maybe be good too. I've ordered some as below and also some of those with the loop.

    https://ohiotravelbag.com/catches---and---clasps

    $1.21
    L-1561-NP.jpg

    $1.37
    L-2789.jpg
     
  2. jam

    jam Well-Known Member

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    Hmm. I was thinking bras.
     
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  3. Manodano

    Manodano Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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  4. idiotsdelight

    idiotsdelight Well-Known Member

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    Keep us up to date when you get some.

    Damnit. I forgot to go into Harbor Freight when I was back home.
     
  5. fullonshred

    fullonshred Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the links and info. My WNO 640 case needs a new latch. It was a B stock and came with one latch missing.

    thanks to @Manodano as well. Will be getting a new latch and a riveter soon.
     
  6. fullonshred

    fullonshred Well-Known Member

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    wound up finding what seems to be just about the same size latch on ebay. Coming from overseas so may be a bit before it arrives. Will have to pick up a riveter from harbor freight soon.
     
  7. jam

    jam Well-Known Member

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    If you use the riveter, get the special little rivet washers for the backside. You don't want them to pull through. Also, make sure that the rivets are long enough; we're not dealing with thin sheet metal here.
     
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  8. MichaelR

    MichaelR Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I think you have to grind or drill the head off the rivets to remove them also. I use a drill not too go clear through but just to drill the top of the rivet off.
     
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  9. mozz

    mozz Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    If you use a small punch to make a divot in the center, a drill bit will not wander. But i have also read that some of the factory rivets have the legs folded out on the backside, they are reusable. I don't know what my case needs yet as i won't peel the backing off until the parts arrive. Even if you have to use a regular rivet, the center hole really won't detract.

    I'd rather have riveted latches than non working ones. Harbor freight also carries a rivet assortment that has longer rivets than normal, better for thicker metal or woods as was said above.

    I bought the TEKTON rivet gun from Amazon, had better reviews and a couple bucks more.
     
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  10. fullonshred

    fullonshred Well-Known Member

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    I wondered about maybe pulling thru. I ordered the riveter late last nite. I will check harbor freight and see if rivet washers are available there. Will pick them up at the store if so.

    My thanks to all offering info here.
     
  11. mozz

    mozz Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Got the latches today so time to install. First off, here is the pic of the original, yours may vary.
    You can see the height difference between the lower and upper sections.



    20190814_140049.jpg

    Now look at the ones i bought, same height.

    20190814_140358.jpg

    Luckily they are almost the exact same sizes for the latching part, so i only needed to change the top part with the spring. It clicks pretty hard but no way will it accidentally open

    Rivet heads show but nobody will know unless you point it out. Slightly smaller on top, had to drill new holes closer to the edge.



    20190814_140154.jpg

    Here is the bad part, now since the holes are moved, these line up half way between the single layer and double layer of the case sides. Added washers to give it more grip. Won't scratch the guitar, nowhere near the neck or body.

    20190814_140306.jpg

    Broken spring inside from the original.

    20190814_140145.jpg


    Harbor freight assortment, i had to use the 1 5/8" length neck.

    20190814_140510.jpg

    Well, that was the first one i did up near the middle of the case neck. Other one was broken was lower part on the case where the belly cut would be. For some reason the case was double thick there and when i redrilled the rivets,at a slight angle downward this time, both went through double layers and came out much better. Maybe it was a fuck up on my part or the top latch was not centered 50/50 between the top and bottom of the case.

    20190814_183332.jpg


    So anyway, i need to browse through that stupid search on the website again and see if they sell any with staggered heights. Price is low enough if you only need the top part with the spring.
     
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  12. mozz

    mozz Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Forgot to add, these factory rivets i drilled out from the back, they didn't have the 5 foldover legs, they were just regular roundhead rivets expanded on the back to hold them in.

    I also had to remove the case strap ribbon which holds the case open, had 3 staples, used the electric staple gun to put 1/4" back in once done.

    If you have a 90 degree drill head for your cordless you might be able to drill from the inside and not have to do that, i of course can't find mine since i rarely ever use it. You can drill from the outside if you punch a start dimple.
     
  13. jam

    jam Well-Known Member

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    I think it looks pretty good. Nobody looks at the inside anyway. At least you know that they aren't going to pull through.
     

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