Discussion in 'Guitars' started by Gfurman, Jun 8, 2019.
Wow, what an adventure! Looks great. I have a similar or same color. Called Ice Tea but looks more sun burst to me. I was wondering the other day how anyone could possibly replace the cord jack if needed since there is no rear panel access, but you did it! I like the look without a pick guard and may do the same. Did you fill the holes by reinserting the same screws? Also, what's a "poker chip?"
I ordered the same bridge this morning and will be here tomorrow. Hopefully then I can get the action adjusted properly. Too hard to do now with the stock bridge buzzing intermittently.
I didn't worry about the holes, but putting the screws back in is a fine idea. The poker chip is the "Rhythm/Treble" plastic switch bezel.
I had the same problem, in fact i've never had a bridge buzz so bad that fingernail polish wouldn't fix it until now. Looks like you already have an answer to your question for a bridge replacement. I was lucky enough to find a bridge in my parts drawer so its all good.
How did you take the poly off a ply hollowbody? Where is that series of posts and pics of the procedure?
Shame for not sharing that project
Scotchbright pads, available at hardware stores.
I just jammed something in there to stop the rattle. Right now I have a small piece of twist tie in there. I jammed it in place then snipped the tie off so it was nearly invisible. Problem solved, $0.
How do I lower action the action on the stock bridge? Do I need a special tool?
Small screw drive that fits tightly, drive it in to lower and out to raise it. I usually loosen the strings a bit but leave them tight enough to measure correctly.
I didn't strip it all off, just two or three layers of clear coat. Google "scotchbrite guitar" or the like - this is a very common thing to do to a neck, and well documented. I apply the the technique to the whole guitar. It's very labor intensive. I use 91% rubbing alcohol to lube up the pad, rinse the dust out of it frequently, and know when to stop. I've stripped the clear coat off of six or seven cheap Asian "utility" instruments, and I like the results. It makes a hell of mess in the workshop. Hard on the hands, too.
Here's how I make a "sanding block" with some "give" to it: I cut about a piece of foam swimming noodle to the same length as the width of my scotchbright pad, then I cut a slit in the foam piece lengthwise. I tuck the end of my pad in the slit, wrap the pad around the the noodle, and if the pad is long enough, I tuck the other end of the pad in the slit as well.
There are different grades of scotchbrite pads just like different grades of sandpaper.
3M 7441 White Non Abrasive
3M 7448 Grey Ultra Fine
3M 7447 Purple Very Fine
3M 7496 Light Green Fine
3M 7446 Dark Grey Coarse
M 7440 Brown Medium
3M 7486 Dark Green Coarse
There's also "knockoffs" of the 3M product that you might find at the discount stores, most which usually follow the same color scheme. I've used 'em, they work just fine.
Oh, ok. I've done a bit of this. I think I used the green but it seemed too abrasive. What colors do you use.
So does it matter which way this bridge goes on? 3 rollers are facing one way and 3 the other. But it looks like I can reverse them as needed.
@Gfurman - All the holes on mine were tapped. If you google 'wilkinson tune-o-matic roller bridge' you will see pictures that show the reverse positions for the screws. I reversed 1, 2, 5 & 6 on mine to get better adjustment & intonation. YMMV
Yeah, it seems like they're reversible to accommodate intonation. Thanks for your insights.
Yes I don't really think it matters which way the adjustment screws are oriented most guitar come with them facing the pickup but really all that matters is that it can intonate. I have had to reverse any number of saddles when I ran out of adjustment room.
Bridge installed. Works great. Very solid. A nice upgrade for only $10. Easily adjusted intonation and no more bridge buzzing. I still have some fret buzzing however. Mostly in the low E string. I guess I need to look at fret height / leveling next. I need a good tool to check that and the string height.
Also, I removed the pick guard. I like that look much better. I may look for nicer finishing screws to plug the holes.
Bone or plastic nut. How can I tell? This last batch of 338's were supposed to have bone. Mine looks an awful lot like white plastic, but I don't know any better. Help!
I have sanded mine a little and yes its bone, you cant miss the smell when sanded. Also I had to file the second fret and there are still one or two more that need work. When I started buying guitars again I also had to buy a few necessary tools, I'm a DIY kinda guy, its fun for me.
Its amazing how the ice tea looks in some pics, then it looks very red in other pics. It must have some shade of red on the outer burst somewhere
Yeah, I need to check my frets too. I am inexperienced but want to learn. I have a buzz in a few places after adjusting neck relief, but primarily on the low E.
Was looking on Amazon at the Fret Guru 2 for $27. There is a Neck Check straight edge for $16. Then I guess I would need a file and fingerboard guards? Any suggestions?
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