File this under the category that previous "crazy TMC" posts are in, you know, like the one where I use brass cabinet knobs for a sustain block, or where I use a telephone listener for an amp. I've got this 1997 Squier Affinity Strat, one of the very early ones with a full sized alder body, 22 medium sized frets on a great feeling neck, and pre CBS headstock. I've shown this guitar many times on this forum in the course of documenting the modifications I've made. These guitars are ideal mod platforms, right up there with the Squier SE. I'd finally got to the point where this thing looked, played, and sounded fantastic. It was a nice shade of pale blue, lightly distressed to match the worn neck. The tuners are from a Douglas Tele. I shaped the bone nut from a blank. The pickups are Squier ceramics that I modified with ALNiCo 3 magnets and which now sound really good. There are numerous other tweaks. The one thing that still drove me nuts were the substantial divits beneath the G, B, and high E stings on the first through third frets. Oddly, the rest of the frets all over the neck were in excellent shape. It was if a previous owner played this thing with a death grip while doing mostly D, C, G, and A chords. Perhaps they were in a band that did all AC/DC songs and they played Malcolm's parts. I figured that at some point I'd either have to do a fret level (which would be a shame, since all the other frets were still in such good health), or pull the offending frets and level them to match the rest of the board. Then a crazy notion came to me . . . Is it possible to add material to frets, to actually build them up where there's a divit? It's possible with a nut using the baking soda and crazy glue trick (I've done it). So why not with frets? I figured that if it's been done, then somebody must have posted about it on the internet. So off I went to do some research. In short order I came across discussions on the subject. Some guys used epoxy or JB weld and got good enough results for a temporary fix. Then I came across a guy who used silver solder, which seemed to work really well. It made sense to me, as frets are partly silver if I'm not mistaken. I already had some of this solder on hand, so what did I have to loose in trying? This kind of experimentation is part of what inexpensively acquired project guitars are for anyways, no? Simply put, it works. I'm actually astounded how well it works. Now don't misunderstand me here. If you've got a guitar that has seriously shot frets and that requires a bona fide level or refret, then this isn't going to work for you. It's just not worth it in that case. However, if you've got a bad divit or two, or half a dozen perhaps, and they're located in the same general area, then this might be a godsend. Many times I've considered a used guitar but passed on it only because there were very bad divits in a couple areas; I knew these would prevent me from ever being able to set it up to my satisfaction. Best to move on to the next one in that case. But this quick, easy, and cheap fix throws all that out the window. I first cleaned the frets with rubbing alcohol to remove any oil and crud. Blue painters tape was applied to protect the fretboard. Shaw is usually closely involved in these projects in a supervisory capacity, but you've got to watch him because he's likely to abscond with a loose string or screw. Then it was as simple as dropping a bead of solder onto each divit. Sure, it looks a ugly here, as many projects do at the beginning. I was surprised at how hard the solder was. It was as difficult to file as the actual frets. The solder didn't flake or chip off either. Good adhesion probably has a lot to do with the prep work. Yes, that is a Revlon nail file. These are cheap and readily available and I've found them to be very handy on many guitar maintenance and repair tasks. After five minutes of careful work. The end result after grinding, sanding, and polishing. No more buzzing. The guitar plays perfect now. For all appearances it's not a heck of a lot different result than if I had put three new frets in. Plus I didn't run the risk of damaging the fretboard in pulling the old ones. Time will tell how well the repair wears, though like I said, the material appears as hard as the frets themselves.