Spraycan Refinish?

Discussion in 'Gear Chat' started by DonTonberry, Jun 3, 2019.

  1. DonTonberry

    DonTonberry Well-Known Member

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    Was looking into doing a refin on one of my guitars using the cheap Rustoleum spraycans (2x painter's touch). Anyone have tips? Been looking around for resources and want to know if anyone here had input. I'm not quite sure on time between spraying coats, sanding between coats/different layers, how thick to spray, or even how i should spray it outside to prevent dust/etc (i don't have a shed or garage to do this in)

    right now i'm planning on doing the following.

    sanding the body lightly (has an oil finish right now)
    filling in the chips and dents with wood filler
    fill in wood grain (ash body and I want an opaque finish)
    sand til smooth

    spray 2 coats of primer/base coat
    scuff with 400 grit
    spray 3 coats of color
    (scuff with 400?)
    spray on 3 coats of clear
    let cure for 2-4 weeks
    level sand and polish?

    any help is appreciated!
     
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  2. backinit

    backinit Well-Known Member

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    I tried that stuff once....never again.
     
  3. artandsoul

    artandsoul Well-Known Member

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    ive done some guitars with the glitter blast, it was a blast for sure lol a dam mess and 12 coats of clear to try and get over the glitter, i wont do it again lol. but normal colors arent as bad for sure.
    use oil base primer like zinsser so it sticks for sure. im a krylon guy myself I do spray paint art and i paint a ton of stuff with spray cans I use about 150 cans of krylon a year. people dont like that 20% free cans from walmart but i love them its just more thinner in them so it drys stupid fast. rustoleum is tacky/wet for hours so i dont use it. you can recoat with krylon in hour easiy.
    if you have used cans before you know how to prevent runs or drips its called do 4 light coats. dont dump it on thick, to many people i know just spray till its covered and have a total mess.
    its a trick using spray cans its not a point and shoot like the cans say.
    i would lightly use 0000 steel wool or the synthetic in between dry coats it will make it smooth as hell. and use a tack cloth from lowes etc it will remove all dust and etc from the surface between coats.tack cloth is the only way you gonna get a clean clean finish in the end.

    not sure what brand clear u using but i would use daft but you can use whatever. just remember it takes forever for it to dry to sand. not sure where you are but humidity and weather play a huge role in dry time and the clear laying flat and not orange peeling badly but i know guys who spray clear in 40 degree weather with no issues just take it out spray it and run back inside to dry. i think dry time on clear is an issue with most people they dont want to wait for it to dry. do you youtube searches for tips on guitar finishing theres tons of videos on there
     
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  4. peskypesky

    peskypesky Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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  5. STACKS

    STACKS Well-Known Member

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    This is what I usually use for a refinish

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. artandsoul

    artandsoul Well-Known Member

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    yep love that zinsser primer its the bomb, and the duplicolor works great just seems like there cans are half the paint of a normal can but it covers well. havent used the minwax clear yet but i will later since its at walmart lol my paint store other than napa/advance auto
     
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  7. Rollin Hand

    Rollin Hand Well-Known Member

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    Look up Brad Angove on Youtube. A good chunk of what he does is guitar refinishing.
     
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  8. DonTonberry

    DonTonberry Well-Known Member

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    yeah this video in particular is what inspired me to try this. i want to replicate what he's doing here.
     
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  9. artandsoul

    artandsoul Well-Known Member

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    that guy over sprayed the total hell outta that guitar imo but its video not real time, may have been 2 days to get the coats on there. shake the can for 2 minutes and shake between coats. you cant see the trash in the pic as well but im sure he sanded for hour to get it flatish lol. ive seen a few finishes on u tube that look great for 10 feet away, i want 10 inches away perfect.
    dont spray indoors unless u have a big shop with a fan to pull fumes out. he put overspray on all his tool boxes etc in the end video, im not impressed with that video but im sure after hour of sanding and 3 clear coats and sanding and weeklater is tuned out great. its easy to get trash in paint or clear you dont want that wont just sand out easily sometimes its 3 coats later after that 3 coats to get it right. its a real pain in the ass to get a perfect finish spray can or hvlp, cup gun etc its really a sanding waiting game in the end.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2019
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  10. BrianSkeezer

    BrianSkeezer Well-Known Member

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    I've used the 2x painter's touch stuff, but don't like it. It doesn't seem to cure correctly and stayed tacky when I used it. Didn't seem to matter how light the coats were either. I've had good luck with the regular Rustoleum cans, and great results from Dupicolor Perfect Match. I also have had the best results with Minwax Gloss Polyurethane as the clear.

    I've sprayed the color until I was happy with how it looked(coverage, level), then sprayed the clear by the can. I used a can for the non-heavy metal flake guitars, and about 3 cans for the heavy flake.
     
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  11. rrobbone

    rrobbone Well-Known Member

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    Spraycan finishes are easy to do, and they are just as easy to mess up. You'll keep your sanding time to a minimum as long as you use good technique. Watch a few videos involving spray technique if you're not already familiar. Look for spraying tutorials on guitars, cars, and instructional vids by graffiti artists. Many of the paint companies' websites also have good info. Basically, it comes down to: do your research, or do more sanding. Paint is cheap, buy an extra can or two and spray on scrap to gain the technique.

    Zinsser is good, just go lightly. On some surfaces, primer isn't always necessary.
    Krylon is also just fine.
    I also like to use Montana Gold. It's pricier, but has a million and two colors. It loads up sandpaper, tho.
    ReRanch has done all of the compatibility work for you if you don't mind traditional colors.
    Duplicolor works well also, but I'd stick to the automotive stuff.
    Deft is good rattlecan clear, Minwax wipe on poly is also good stuff and easy to use. Minwax spray can get hazy if humidity/temperature conditions aren't pretty close to perfect.

    All of those products flash quickly, and they all need different approaches. Test out the full run for compatibility - from cleaner to conditioner, primer to clear - on clean scrap. Always. Do a test even if you know what you're doing, paint can go bad in the can and you want to know that before it hits the guitar.

    Warming your paint cans in warm (not hot) water can help avoid a lot of problems.

    Use a good, properly rated resiprator - you don't want that shit in your lungs.

    I strongly recommend you avoid Rustoleum.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2019
  12. artandsoul

    artandsoul Well-Known Member

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    ill agree spray can finishes are a trick and not easy to pull off 1st time. that montana is the best spray paint for solid color ever made period, its made for grafitti artist so its def a color bomb just to dam expensive to justify for having 10-11 colors but if i was doing 1 color its def the way to go solid and fast. montana is like gibson and krylon is sx lol
     
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  13. Tsukiyomi

    Tsukiyomi Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to post these again, but I did both of mine with StewMac spray cans. They're obviously not solid colours, but you can get a good result, just build up your layers slowly. Blue Scotch painters tape for masking, Deft clear coat & 0000 steel wool (much, much later) for the final shine.

    Vintage Burst.jpg
    Gloss.jpg
     
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  14. rrobbone

    rrobbone Well-Known Member

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    So many ways to skin this particular cat...
     
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  15. Manodano

    Manodano Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Never thought about spray paint in a can going bad. What happens, and how can you tell?

    Anybody tried this sort of thing?

    53f8c4f09c6e092608c8a3783c6a5261.jpg
     
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  16. rrobbone

    rrobbone Well-Known Member

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    When I began to paint my last batch, something went wrong with a couple of the colors:

    20180824_145116.jpg

    Four cans were like this, to varying degrees. They were all from the same batch, and luckily I was able to rally and fix all of them. It went on smooth, just like normal. I had no idea anything was wrong, so I did several more bodies. They all flashed like this.

    You can't tell until you spray it onto something. That's why I always test it out on scrap first. The above picture is of the one freakin time I didn't. I won't make that mistake again, it cost me almost a week and a shit ton of sandpaper.
     
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  17. AnotherJim

    AnotherJim Active Member

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    8071645A-E725-44E8-BB13-E846A1A5244D.jpeg You can get a decent result with cans but you have to be really patient. I went very light with each coat, I think I put on 4 coats of silver metallic and put a lot of clear on. A good amount of sanding, went up to 1500 grit on the clear and my neighbor had a polishing wheel which was the coupe de grace....

    It’s starting to relic a bit. I did this 3 years ago. The guitar was a burst that the poly was completely chipping off on.
     
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  18. glasshand

    glasshand Well-Known Member

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    Reading this thread, I'm feeling much better about having purchased Montana cans for my work-in-progress! I mean, I'm just using the exciting colors "white" and "black", but still...
     
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  19. tvvoodoo

    tvvoodoo Well-Known Member AGF Registered Dealer

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    white is hard! bugs seem to be drawn to it like a friggin magnet! Good luck!
     
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  20. jwguitar

    jwguitar Well-Known Member

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    That's a pretty amazing paint job that you did to change the color of your guitar! That must have taken quite a while and tons of patience.
     
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